Fact:
As everyone should know by now, India Ink can have its light side and dark side. The light side is if it's used properly, then the matieral itself creates funomenal results. How do you think some of the masters of art got noticed?
There is a good thing and bad thing about India Ink being perminate. The good thing is that once it dries, you CANNOT erase it! It won't come off! The bad thing is if you messed up or made an error, again you CANNOT erase it once it dries. Whatever mark you create is going to be there for the rest of its days.
Now, let me say this, it does have an evil side to it as well. When I say evil, I mean EVIL!!!! Okay, this evil side is when it gets on any of your good clothes, then say goodbye to them because once it dries on your clothes, they are forever ruined!!!!!!
I recently discovered that there is only ONE WAY to remove India Ink and I do mean only ONE!!!!! In order to remove at least half of it, you MUST stop what you're doing right then and there. After you get a clean peiece of clothing on, put the piece of clothing under some hot water where the spot(s) is. Then take the "Spray & Wash with Reslove Power" spray and spray some on the spot(s). Now, DO NOT RUB IT!!!!!!! If you do, IT WILL SMEAR AND MAKE IT WORSE!!!!!! Okay, once the spray is there, take your fingernails (thumbnail would be best) and go up and down hard to remove at least half of it. Once a good amount of it is off, then wash it and then dry it. After it's dry, then take a look if it worked.
Again, this is the ONLY way to remove it, if you don't have any "Spray & Wash with Resolve Power" then get some.
Tip:
Find an old peice of clothing that you're willing to sacrifice in the name of art. Trust me, you'll be glad you did.
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Material Fact: Rubber Cement
Fact:
Okay, I've been using this rubber cement this whole entire semester and it works like wonders for me. Let me tell you why.
If you want a project that has to do with cutting paper and you want it to look professional, then just follow the three different ways on how to apply it and what the end result would be.
1. Dry Mounting
2. Wet Mounting
3. A Combination of Wet and Dry Mounting
I've tested all three. If you want a secure perminant stay, then Dry Mounting will be your best bet because you apply it both on the front and the back.
If you want a little movement and want it to dry in place where you want it to. then Wet Mounting is the way to go because it's not as perminant as Wet Mounting is. It'll eventually dry in place, but some movement can be a good thing at times if by any chance that the object is not where you want it. All you do here is apply only on one side of the object and let it dry. BE CAREFUL TO APPLY THE RUBBER CEMENT ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE OBJECT!!!!!!! Trust me, I've been down that road sometime before so I know what not to do.
The Combination of Wet And Dry Mounting has a cool effect to it. It has the bond of Wet Mounting and the allowance of some freedom of the Dry Mounting.
Tip:
Let's say your project is turning out totally awsome and you feel this weird texture from applying the rubber cement, what now? Well.... I want to introduce you to another awsome little friend called the Rubber Cement eraser. All it does is erase whatever dried rubber cement that is one your project. It makes it like the rubber cement was never even there. I use it all of the time. It'll also make your project even more professional looking.
Now, I've shared another artist little friend, or friends for that matter. I hope this helps
Okay, I've been using this rubber cement this whole entire semester and it works like wonders for me. Let me tell you why.
If you want a project that has to do with cutting paper and you want it to look professional, then just follow the three different ways on how to apply it and what the end result would be.
1. Dry Mounting
2. Wet Mounting
3. A Combination of Wet and Dry Mounting
I've tested all three. If you want a secure perminant stay, then Dry Mounting will be your best bet because you apply it both on the front and the back.
If you want a little movement and want it to dry in place where you want it to. then Wet Mounting is the way to go because it's not as perminant as Wet Mounting is. It'll eventually dry in place, but some movement can be a good thing at times if by any chance that the object is not where you want it. All you do here is apply only on one side of the object and let it dry. BE CAREFUL TO APPLY THE RUBBER CEMENT ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE OBJECT!!!!!!! Trust me, I've been down that road sometime before so I know what not to do.
The Combination of Wet And Dry Mounting has a cool effect to it. It has the bond of Wet Mounting and the allowance of some freedom of the Dry Mounting.
Tip:
Let's say your project is turning out totally awsome and you feel this weird texture from applying the rubber cement, what now? Well.... I want to introduce you to another awsome little friend called the Rubber Cement eraser. All it does is erase whatever dried rubber cement that is one your project. It makes it like the rubber cement was never even there. I use it all of the time. It'll also make your project even more professional looking.
Now, I've shared another artist little friend, or friends for that matter. I hope this helps
Sunday, March 8, 2009
Material Fact: Aluminum vs. Wood
Fact:
Do you wish to use aluminum with wood? Well... that's great and all, but it's kind of not a good idea. I'll tell you why.
If you are making a project out of aluminum (I used aluminim pan), use plastic (or plastic cups) to attatch to the aluminum. Wood is not a good idea to use as far as aluminum pan or aluminum in gereral because it pops right off!
No matter how many times you glue it in order to make it stay, it just will not do it. I have even tried using plastic to see if the wood will stay better. It came out with the same result.
At first, it will trick you into thinking that it's working (either with plastic or without plastic) and then if you bent it a certain way... POP!
So, it was a great idea, but it somewhat went in the wrong direction. One more thing, if you plan on painting the aluminum, make sure that you test out the paint on a small or medium size piece of aluminum and wait for a couple of hours to see if it will chip off or not. Afterwards, glue on a piece of plastic or whatever material that you wish to work with. If the paint automatically comes off, then either try to work with it as best you know how or try a different material.
Do you wish to use aluminum with wood? Well... that's great and all, but it's kind of not a good idea. I'll tell you why.
If you are making a project out of aluminum (I used aluminim pan), use plastic (or plastic cups) to attatch to the aluminum. Wood is not a good idea to use as far as aluminum pan or aluminum in gereral because it pops right off!
No matter how many times you glue it in order to make it stay, it just will not do it. I have even tried using plastic to see if the wood will stay better. It came out with the same result.
At first, it will trick you into thinking that it's working (either with plastic or without plastic) and then if you bent it a certain way... POP!
So, it was a great idea, but it somewhat went in the wrong direction. One more thing, if you plan on painting the aluminum, make sure that you test out the paint on a small or medium size piece of aluminum and wait for a couple of hours to see if it will chip off or not. Afterwards, glue on a piece of plastic or whatever material that you wish to work with. If the paint automatically comes off, then either try to work with it as best you know how or try a different material.
Well... I hope this helps
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Material Facts: Liquidex Matte Medium
Fact:
Alot of people use this media for mainly a glossy finish on a painting or a glue on a collage. Well, I found a new way how to use this.
For example if by any chance that you are doing a project that deals with plaster, you have already sanded it with sand paper, and you are not to crazy about the dints and little pits, it turns out that you can use it to basically make it even.
What I mean is that if you apply many coats of the matte medium (depending on what project you are working on), once it dries comepletely, then it will eventually rise up and builds layers. Not only that, your project won't get wet afterwards.
There is one tiny detail that you must know. Your brush strokes HAVE to be even. In other words, not blotches of left over medium sticking out and there are no sides that has bigger layers over the others.
As far as determining the amount of matte medium, try getting brush really thick with it and gently go over your project without pressing. If you press, then you will be gathering the media instead of applying it.
IT IS TOTALLY SAFE TO USE ON PLASTER!!!!!! If you have a project that is plaster and you are not really satisified with it being uneven, then go for the matte medium. One more thing, if your project is not plaster, I strongly suggest reading the instructions, look for other peoples results, and ask around for advice.
I have officially gave it the new nickname "An artists best friend". That's how totally awsome this stuff is.
_________
If you're doing a mixed media art project with smeery material and is afraid of the smeers, then read this.
As I said before, this is used alot of times for a more professional aspect of glue and a glossy finish; however, it also gives out a good finished product a well deserve protection on your canvas if you used smeery art materials, like charcoal sticks.
Once the matte medium dries, your product will only not smeer; but also, your hands will be clean because the matte medium secured the art material from being on your hands.
Well, I hope this helps anyone.
Alot of people use this media for mainly a glossy finish on a painting or a glue on a collage. Well, I found a new way how to use this.
For example if by any chance that you are doing a project that deals with plaster, you have already sanded it with sand paper, and you are not to crazy about the dints and little pits, it turns out that you can use it to basically make it even.
What I mean is that if you apply many coats of the matte medium (depending on what project you are working on), once it dries comepletely, then it will eventually rise up and builds layers. Not only that, your project won't get wet afterwards.
There is one tiny detail that you must know. Your brush strokes HAVE to be even. In other words, not blotches of left over medium sticking out and there are no sides that has bigger layers over the others.
As far as determining the amount of matte medium, try getting brush really thick with it and gently go over your project without pressing. If you press, then you will be gathering the media instead of applying it.
IT IS TOTALLY SAFE TO USE ON PLASTER!!!!!! If you have a project that is plaster and you are not really satisified with it being uneven, then go for the matte medium. One more thing, if your project is not plaster, I strongly suggest reading the instructions, look for other peoples results, and ask around for advice.
I have officially gave it the new nickname "An artists best friend". That's how totally awsome this stuff is.
_________
If you're doing a mixed media art project with smeery material and is afraid of the smeers, then read this.
As I said before, this is used alot of times for a more professional aspect of glue and a glossy finish; however, it also gives out a good finished product a well deserve protection on your canvas if you used smeery art materials, like charcoal sticks.
Once the matte medium dries, your product will only not smeer; but also, your hands will be clean because the matte medium secured the art material from being on your hands.
Well, I hope this helps anyone.
Sunday, February 1, 2009
Material Fact: Plaster Bandages
Fact:
If you are using plaster bandages for any project, you must know that it dries really really FAST! I am talking about within 3 minutes type of fast. That is a good thing and a bad thing.
The good thing about it is that you do not have to wait long for it to dry. As for the bad thing about it drying that fast is if you wish to add more layers on top of your project, then do so in a fast pace. When it dries, you CANNOT add anymore layers afterwards.
So, for smooth results, gentlely by rapidly rub the tiny squares. If you are doing a mask, DO NOT APPLY ON THE FACE! Instead, use a stryofoam head (if it is straight) for your volenteer. They are great supporters. For easy removal, add plastic wrap on the face part so it can easily be removed and so you can use it for yourself.
This is total good news what I am about to tell you. If by any chance you have any rough spots on your project from not making the tiny squares smooth, you CAN sand it with sandpaper. However, YOU MUST GENTLY RUB IT!
Trust me, you will be amazed!
One more thing, unless you like really expensive plumbing bills, DO NOT POUR DOWN THE DRAIN!!!!!!!
This is just a friendly little tip about a particular type of art material if you ever wanted to know about plaster bandages.
If you are using plaster bandages for any project, you must know that it dries really really FAST! I am talking about within 3 minutes type of fast. That is a good thing and a bad thing.
The good thing about it is that you do not have to wait long for it to dry. As for the bad thing about it drying that fast is if you wish to add more layers on top of your project, then do so in a fast pace. When it dries, you CANNOT add anymore layers afterwards.
So, for smooth results, gentlely by rapidly rub the tiny squares. If you are doing a mask, DO NOT APPLY ON THE FACE! Instead, use a stryofoam head (if it is straight) for your volenteer. They are great supporters. For easy removal, add plastic wrap on the face part so it can easily be removed and so you can use it for yourself.
This is total good news what I am about to tell you. If by any chance you have any rough spots on your project from not making the tiny squares smooth, you CAN sand it with sandpaper. However, YOU MUST GENTLY RUB IT!
Trust me, you will be amazed!
One more thing, unless you like really expensive plumbing bills, DO NOT POUR DOWN THE DRAIN!!!!!!!
This is just a friendly little tip about a particular type of art material if you ever wanted to know about plaster bandages.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
